Mount Teide is often considered as the hotspot on Tenerife for hiking and nature. But for us, the island’s most beautiful nature lies in the northeast: Anaga Rural Park. It is one of the oldest parts of the island where you can find moss-covered forests next to basalt peaks and the most dramatic black-sand beaches. It was one of our favorite parts of the island and a destination that should be on your travel planning when visiting Tenerife.
This post contains all the information to prepare your visit to Anaga in Tenerife: the best viewpoints and photogenic places, the best hikes, how to get there and where to stay.
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The map below can help you plan your visit to Anaga park. It contains the must-sees of the rural park, the starting points of the hike and other usefull information.
How to use this map / Click on the top left of the map to display the list of locations. You can also click on the locations to display further information. Click on the top right corner of the map to open a larger version of the map in a new tab. Click the star (favorites) next to the name of the map to save to your Google Maps.
Table of Contents
Some basic information about Anaga
Anaga Rural Park, with a size of 140 km², is situated in the northeast of Tenerife. This part of Tenerife was formed by a massive volcanic eruption million years ago. As soon as you arrive here, you sense the age of this area. It is home to some impressive laurisilva (laurel) forests. The trees are covered in moss and there is often fog in between the trees, giving this place an enchanted vibe. But more towards the ocean, you can find spectacular cliffs that end into black-sand beaches.
Stepping into Anaga is a sensory shift. The temperature often drops 5°C or 10°C compared to other places in Tenerife. And the air here is refreshing, with the scent of damp earth and laurel. The clouds coming from the Atlantic create a thick fog that turns into droplets, keeping the vegetation permanently moist. It creates a unique microclimate resulting in the most beautiful forests and landscapes. That’s why this place definitely deserved a place on the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve list.
Read more: Make sure to visit Teide National Park in Tenerife. Check-out our post.
How to get to Anaga Rural Park
By car
The best way to visit Anaga Rural Park is by car. Having your own transportation allows you to easily visit different parts of the park and to stop at the different viewpoints you’ll encounter along the way. Rental cars in Tenerife are cheap and the roads are in great condition. On our travels, we always rent our cars via discoverycars.com as they have great service and affordable insurance.
Compare rental car prices and book your own transportation for Tenerife
It is a one hour drive from La Laguna and from the capital of Tenerife, Santa Cruz. The TF-12 crosses the entire park. This sometimes narrow road takes you from sea level up into the mountains. There are many curves and bends, making this road a beautiful (yet sometimes exciting) route.
Parking in Anaga is free and at most viewpoints and starting points of hikes, there are parking spots. At the most touristy stops, it can get busy so it’s best to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon. We quickly learned that timing in Anaga is everything.
Around midday, we pulled up near the visitor center, aiming for one of the park’s most iconic, moss-covered photospots. But as soon as we arrived there, we noticed cars were squeezed into every available inch of the narrow roadside. The “secret” photo spot looked more like an overcrowded room. We then made a strategic pivot. We decided to skip this place for now and spent the next few hours exploring the deeper, less-frequented viewpoints and highlights of the park.
When we circled back in the late afternoon, we witnessed a total transformation. The line of cars had vanished and we had the entire place to ourselves. Most of the tour buses and day-trippers staying in the south had already begun the long drive back to their hotels. So our pro-tip for you: If a popular spot looks like a parking lot, keep driving. Explore the quieter corners first, and wait for the “South-Tenerife migration”. By 4:00, the park gets remarkably less busy.
By bus
If you don’t want to drive yourself or look for parking spots, public transport is a good alternative. Transportes Interurbanos de Tenerife (TITSA) is one of the most important public transport companies in the country and there are different bus lines that take you to Cruz Del Carmen, in the middle of Anaga park. An overview of all tourist route lines can be found here.
With a tour
Another great option is a guided tour. That way, you can experience the breathtaking roads of Anaga without driving yourself. With a tour you simply get dropped off at the best trails and viewpoints. But for us, the main advantage of a tour is the access you get to expert knowledge. Well-organized tours provide a local guide who can explain the complex biology of this place and the history of the villages. This Anaga tour combines the most iconic viewpoints with some excellent trails, so you’ll get a good understanding of the park.
Book you tour here: Anaga in Tenerife tour
How much time do you need to visit Anaga in Tenerife?
It depends on how much time you have in Tenerife, but we suggest you spend at least an entire day in this area to explore the different parts of the park. During our visit, we had two days in the park. It allowed us to do some beautiful hikes, visit the black-sand beaches and the best viewpoints.
What to do in Anaga Rural Park
Hiking
There are different hiking trails in the national park and we wished we had the time to explore all of them. Nevertheless, despite having only two days in the park, we had the opportunity to hike a couple of the trails. Here are our three favorites, from the most accessible to the most exclusive one.
The path of the senses (Sendero de los sentidos)
The start of this short hike is located right at the Cruz del Carmen visitor center, at the left of the parking lot. It is the most accessible hike in the park and is split into three short routes of different lengths. One of these routes (route 1) is wheelchair accessible. The parking lot is relatively large, but keep in mind this place is popular. So plan your visit in the early morning or late afternoon.
Along the trail, there are signs with symbols for the different senses (e.g. nose – smell the laurel, hand – touch the moss, …). Route 3 includes the previous two trails and descends even further to the Mirador del Llano de los Loros, where you can enjoy views of Santa Cruz and the Tahodio Gorge. The hike is relatively easy and will take 45 minutes to complete.
The forest of enigmas (Sendero del bosque del enigma)
While the official start of the Enigma Forest trail is at the Zapata Viewpoint (Point 1), we found it much more practical to start directly from the Cruz del Carmen Visitor Center. This allows us to easily combine it with the ‘path of the senses’ hike.
To find the trailhead from the visitor center, head toward the café and pass it on the left-hand side. About 100 meters further, you’ll spot the first red sign for this route. From here, follow the markers toward points 6 and 7 until you reach the official start at the Zapata Viewpoint (Point 1).
The full loop is roughly 5 km and takes about 90 minutes to complete. It is a relatively easy hike with only a few brief steep sections, making it accessible for most fitness levels. The trail is divided into seven key points of interest, each offering a different look at the unique flora and geology of the ancient cloud forest.
Both of the above hikes start at Cruz del Carmen. Here you have access to the visitor center facilities (including free toilets) and café before or after your hike.
El Pijaral (The Enchanted Forest)
This is often considered as the “crown jewel” of Anaga. This prehistoric forest feels like a film set from Jurassic Park. However, as this is a protected “Integrated Natural Reserve” only a limited number of people are allowed per day and you need to book a (free) permit upfront. We wrote a separate post about how to book a permit and the details about the El Pijaral hike.
Navigate the windy roads of the park
Beyond the hiking trails, one of the best ways to experience the park is simply to drive. The main road, the TF-12, takes you along the highest ridges of these mountains. At one moment, you’ll find yourself driving through a “tunnel of trees,” the next, you get the Atlantic Ocean on both sides of the car simultaneously. It definitely is a spectacular road, but keep in mind that it requires your full attention. There are hairpin turns and steep parts. The locals drive these roads every day, so if a car is tailing you, simply use the next turnout to let them pass so you can go back to enjoying the view at your own pace.
Visit the mountain villages
Scattered across the ridges and tucked into deep ravines, you can find small, traditional villages in Anaga. Visiting these mountain villages gave us a glimpse into how the Anagüeros (the local inhabitants) have adapted to this terrain over the centuries. Many of these villages also have a viewpoint, making the drive worth it.
Chinamada is also called the ‘cave village’. Because the volcanic rock is relatively easy to carve, many residents still live in homes built directly into the rocks. There is a beautiful viewpoint nearby overlooking the ocean and some dramatic cliffs
Taborno was our favorite stop. Here you can see the Roque de Taborno, which is often referred to as the Matterhorn of Tenerife. The village itself is tiny and peaceful and we got some spectacular views here.
Take in the landscape from the spectacular viewpoints
Along the road, you’ll encounter several viewpoints. Our top picks are:
- Mirador de Jardina: The best spot to see the contrast between the lush green mountains and the colorful urban sprawl of La Laguna below.
- Mirador Cruz del Carmen: It is said that on a clear day, you can even spot Mount Teide here! Unfortunately for us, it was a ‘cannot see a thing’ moment. Due to the sea of clouds, the only thing we saw was thick mist.
- Mirador Pico del Inglés: This viewpoint looks down to the ocean. From here you can see Santa Cruz in the south and the other Canary Islands like Gran Canaria and La Palma on the horizon.
Head to the black-sand beaches
Anaga isn’t just about lush green forests. As soon as we reached the village of Taganana, we witnessed the landscape shifting from prehistoric forests to basalt cliffs and the volcanic black sands. We visited two black-sand beaches, Playa de Almáciga, with a wild and energetic vibe and Playa de Benijo. As a warning: The north coast of Tenerife is notorious for its strong undercurrents and riptides. While the water may look inviting, the Atlantic here is very unpredictable.
Head to the most photogenic stops
Around every corner in Anaga park, you’ll find something to phonograph. But as photography lovers, we also want to include our favorite photo spots as a treat.
Camino Viejo al Pico del Inglés
For us, this was the most surreal spot in the entire park. It is an abandoned segment of an old road cut directly into the volcanic rocks. Over decades, the walls have been covered in thick layers of moss, while the laurel trees above have intertwined to create a natural archway. It really looks like a scene from a dark fairy tale. The best perspective to take the photo is from the center of the path, looking. The old road is located just a few hundred meters before the Pico del Inglés viewpoint. Note that this isn’t a secret spot, so it can get very busy during the day.
The Mountains near Taborno
If you want to capture the vertical side of Anaga, the area around the village of Taborno is perfect for that. The standout feature here is the Roque de Taborno, but the other surrounding mountains are equally beautiful. The clouds are often swirling around the peaks, making this a great photo spot.
Roque de las Bodegas
The Roque de las Bodegas (located just after Taganana) offers an accessible but powerful coastal shot. Here you can find a massive rock formation that sits right on the edge of the black sand. There is a raw vibe with the Atlantic waves crashing against the rocks.
A perfect one and two day itinerary for Anaga park in Tenerife
Day 1
In the morning
- Start at Cruz Del Carmen.
- Take in the views from the viewing platform.
- Then experience the ancient laurel forest by hiking the path of senses and the Enigma forest.
In the afternoon
- Head to the mountain villages Las Carboneras, Chinamada and Taborno.
- Have lunch in a local café
- Take your time to explore these tiny villages, the viewpoints and the breathtaking landscape.
Day 2
In the morning
- Drive to El Bailadero and continue to the starting point of the El Pijaral (The Enchanted Forest) hike.
- Stop along the viewpoints along the way.
- Hike the circular route through this ancient forest.
In the afternoon
- Drive back to El Bailadero
- Take lunch in Taganana.
- Continue your drive towards Roque de las Bodegas and the volcanic, black-sand beaches.
Where to stay when visiting Anaga park in Tenerife
If you want to wake up in the mist and hit the trails before the crowds arrive, staying within the park boundaries is your best choice. Montes de Anaga Hostel is located in El Bailadero and therefore a great option for hikers and budget travelers.
If you prefer more amenities and a wider choice of restaurants, staying in the nearby cities of La Laguna or Santa Cruz is the most practical move.
Hotel Taburiente in Santa Cruz de Tenerife is a perfect gateway for exploring the north of the island. It is located on the edge of the city and therefore offers a quick 20-minute drive into the heart of Anaga. The hotel has a rooftop pool with panoramic views and different restaurants. An excellent place to rewind after a day of hiking.
La Laguna Gran Hotel in San Cristobal de Laguna is a great option if you want comfort and history combined. The hotel is housed in a stunning 18th-century building, with traditional Canarian courtyards. There is also a rooftop pool with views over the city’s iconic bell towers. It is situated within the pedestrian zone of the city, meaning you can walk to all the major sights and restaurants once you park your car for the evening.
What to pack when heading to Anaga Rural Park in Tenerife?
- Sturdy hiking shoes (many trails are narrow and uneven)
- Sunglasses and sunscreen
- Plenty of water and snacks
- A waterproof jacket
- Your permit and ID when hiking El Pijaral
Our final thoughts on Anaga Park in Tenerife
Tenerife is an island that surprised us in many ways. But Anaga was definitely one of the places that will stay with us for a long time. The dripping green of the Enigma Forest, the fairytale road of Pico del Inglés, and the Atlantic foam against the black sands of the beaches. It is a place where nature still feels a little bit wild and that’s exactly what we love!
Our biggest piece of advice? Don’t just rush through for a few photos. Take your time here and you’ll realize that Anaga is simply stunning.
Happy travels!
M&M
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